Difficulty
Difficult
Steps
12
Time Required
2 - 3 hours
Sections
1
- On-/Off-Switch
- 12 steps
Flags
Member-Contributed Guide
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BackFujifilm X20
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Screws at front
- Before you start remove batterie and SD-card!
- Take notes of all screw’s positions! The best way to do that is to use a magnetic project mat.
- I removed the rubber covering completely to find all screws, but if you know the positions you can leave most rubber on and just remove it at the edges to access the screws. The rubber will stick well again after the repair but is very difficult to reattach after complete removal.
- Remove all screws marked red, the screws with green marks can stay in for now.
- Almost all screws are cross headed, except for one T2 size torx screw.
Before you start remove batterie and SD-card!
Take notes of all screw’s positions! The best way to do that is to use a magnetic project mat.
I removed the rubber covering completely to find all screws, but if you know the positions you can leave most rubber on and just remove it at the edges to access the screws. The rubber will stick well again after the repair but is very difficult to reattach after complete removal.
Remove all screws marked red, the screws with green marks can stay in for now.
Almost all screws are cross headed, except for one T2 size torx screw.
1024
Step 2
Screws at sides and back
- Remove all screws marked red.
Remove all screws marked red.
Step 3
Remove bottom plate and open back cover
- Before you open the camera make sure you are electrically ground to earth. The best way to ensure that is to work with ESD-rated equipment such as wristband, mat and special srew-driver. Electrical discharge into the cameras electronics will lead to severe damage!
- Remove all screws marked red, the screws with green marks can stay in for now.
- After opening the bottom plate you will see the speaker on the position marked with a blue circle. In my case the cable detached trying to remove it, but since I never used the speaker I didn’t care. You will need to find another way around it if you want to keep the speaker, shouldn’t be to difficult now that you know how the next steps look like.
Before you open the camera make sure you are electrically ground to earth. The best way to ensure that is to work with ESD-rated equipment such as wristband, mat and special srew-driver. Electrical discharge into the cameras electronics will lead to severe damage!
After opening the bottom plate you will see the speaker on the position marked with a blue circle. In my case the cable detached trying to remove it, but since I never used the speaker I didn’t care. You will need to find another way around it if you want to keep the speaker, shouldn’t be to difficult now that you know how the next steps look like.
Step 4
Remove back cover
- Detach cable marked red opening a little bar on the switch to detach the backplate with screen.
- Remove cables and screws on left side to remove the little PCB, that will enable to remove the metal cover.
- In third image the blue circle marks the solder points the little speaker is attached to, shouldn’t need to desolder I think.
Detach cable marked red opening a little bar on the switch to detach the backplate with screen.
Remove cables and screws on left side to remove the little PCB, that will enable to remove the metal cover.
In third image the blue circle marks the solder points the little speaker is attached to, shouldn’t need to desolder I think.
Step 5
Remove internal back cover
- The little PCB can be taken of the cable, also screws to be removed to detach the metal cover. The metal cover is attached to another cable on it’s back.
The little PCB can be taken of the cable, also screws to be removed to detach the metal cover. The metal cover is attached to another cable on it’s back.
Step 6
Remove top plate with flash unit
- To cables to be removed to detach the top bit of the camera, the flash unit including the capacitor can remain attached to the top section.
- WARNING: Be carefull with the flash unit capacitor, risk of very high voltage!
To cables to be removed to detach the top bit of the camera, the flash unit including the capacitor can remain attached to the top section.
WARNING: Be carefull with the flash unit capacitor, risk of very high voltage!
Step 7
Remove lens/sensor unit
- 4 screws hold the lens/sensor unit in place.
4 screws hold the lens/sensor unit in place.
Step 8
For the full teardown
- For the full teardown remove the two screws marked in red to take of the battery compartment.
For the full teardown remove the two screws marked in red to take of the battery compartment.
Step 9
What's broken?
- Showing the mechanism that moves during zooming the lens and switching the camera on as well. Zooming the lens moves the black slider along the metal rail and activates the on-switch sitting inside. That works via a small white gearwheel that is connected to the black slider. The wheel also tells the camera electronics the current zoom position.
Showing the mechanism that moves during zooming the lens and switching the camera on as well. Zooming the lens moves the black slider along the metal rail and activates the on-switch sitting inside. That works via a small white gearwheel that is connected to the black slider. The wheel also tells the camera electronics the current zoom position.
Step 10
Fix on-/off-switch mechanism
- In my case the black slider could tilt towards the rails, disconnecting the white gearwheel and therefore all electronic functions of the zoom mechanism.
- To fix that I glued the bit of plastic onto the backside of the black slider, preventing it from tilting towards the rail. Before fixing the slider position make sure it’s in the right position to show the exact focal range later in camera.
In my case the black slider could tilt towards the rails, disconnecting the white gearwheel and therefore all electronic functions of the zoom mechanism.
To fix that I glued the bit of plastic onto the backside of the black slider, preventing it from tilting towards the rail. Before fixing the slider position make sure it’s in the right position to show the exact focal range later in camera.
Step 11
Broken lens fitting point
- I found that the lens must have been knocked at some point since one of the lens fixing points were broken off (I assuming that must have broken the switch as well, maybe at the position marked blue in step 9 image 2).
- To fix this I reattached the fixing point using superglue.
I found that the lens must have been knocked at some point since one of the lens fixing points were broken off (I assuming that must have broken the switch as well, maybe at the position marked blue in step 9 image 2).
To fix this I reattached the fixing point using superglue.
Step 12
Success!
- Re-assembled the camera working my way backwards through the steps, it is working fine now. Good luck!
Re-assembled the camera working my way backwards through the steps, it is working fine now. Good luck!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Manuel Fohler
Member since: 04/19/2015
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jordi Duchemin - Feb 15, 2018
Reply
Hello, i’ve try to repair my X20 who seemed to have the same probleme of on/off switch: the camera start in play mode but when i turn the on/off switch everything go’s to black and i can’t anymore go to the play mode. A disassembly the camera with your guide but i didn’t understand how exactly your repair it. What about the small plexiglass part you insert and why did it fix the pb ? Should i do exactly the same action to make my camera ready for some more pictures ?
Tank you for the disassembly guide which work perfectly.
Manuel Fohler - Feb 17, 2018
I’m glad the pictures helped you so far. The plan was to add more text at some point, especially the part with the actual fix isn’t very clear. So let me explain a bit more detailed how I fixed the on/off switch in my X20:
In the first picture of step 10 you see the metal rail and the black slider sitting on top. If you turn the lens the slider should move along the rail and activate the on switch sitting inside. That works via a small white gearwheel that is connected to the black slider. In my case (and I hope you find the same situation in your camera) the black slider could tilt towards the rails, disconnecting the white gearwheel and therefore all electronic functions of the zoom mechanism.
To fix that I glued the bit of plastic onto the backside of the black slider, preventing it from tilting towards the rail. Before you fix the slider position you need to make sure it’s in the right position to show the exact focal range later in camera.
If you should have more questions you are welcome to write me again.
rrcp - Mar 19, 2019
Reply
I’m looking forward to when you add more description to these photos. I have the same issue with my X20 since last week. I turn the lens, there is sign of power, then its off. I know that the battery is good and fully charged. I can turn on the playback function no problem. I am reluctant to rip into the camera before I understand better what I need to do.
Manuel Fohler - Mar 19, 2019
Hello,
It is difficult to say what the usual reason for this on/off-switch issue is. I think my case was special because I found that the lens must have been knocked at some point, in step 11 you can see that one of the lens fixing points were broken off and that must have broken the switch as well.
The on/off-switch problem appears more often but I think it can have different sources. The only way to find out, without sending it to service, would be do open it and have a look. I found a video of someone opening his X10 (which is a very similar design) and explaining how he fixed his camera having also trouble with the switch but with a different cause, maybe that helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKn16FJT…
If you have any questions in particular please let me know.
Best wishes,
Manuel
Manuel Fohler - Mar 19, 2019
Reply
Added some descriptions now as well, hope that helps.