Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
55
Time Required
1 - 3 hours
Sections
1
- E-bike Disassembly of frame for painting (model: HNF UD1)
- 55 steps
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Introduction
I had two identical bikes, and learned a lot along the way. I documented everything along the way, and applied some optimizations to the process afterwards, thus the images often contain parts, that are not there by the time (since this last order of actions is the best). Hope you still find it helpful!
What you need
Step 1
Remove E-bike Battery
- Unlock the battery
- Remove the Battery
- You may fetch a box to store all the parts of the bike while it is taken for painting
- Great videos about dissasembly of Bosch ebike parts can be found here: https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/Bosch-eBike…
Unlock the battery
Remove the Battery
You may fetch a box to store all the parts of the bike while it is taken for painting
Great videos about dissasembly of Bosch ebike parts can be found here: https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/Bosch-eBike…
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Step 2
Remove the Seatpost and seatpost clamp
- If you use a bike stand, this may rather be the last step!
- Unscrew the seatpost clamp screw with the 5mm hex key
- Remove the seat and seat post
- Pull off the seatpost clamp
If you use a bike stand, this may rather be the last step!
Unscrew the seatpost clamp screw with the 5mm hex key
Remove the seat and seat post
Pull off the seatpost clamp
Step 3
Remove Crank arm
- Remove the crank arm bolt with 8mm allen key completely
- A significant amount of pressure may be needed at the beggining. You may hold the crank arm for better force
- Before removeing the drive unit its best to check this video for a general overview: https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/Bosch-eBike…
Remove the crank arm bolt with 8mm allen key completely
A significant amount of pressure may be needed at the beggining. You may hold the crank arm for better force
Before removeing the drive unit its best to check this video for a general overview: https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/Bosch-eBike…
Step 4
- Install Crank extractor tool
- screw the extractor tool gently in
- it is designed to go in nice and smooth, by hand!
- hand tighten the rear portion of the crank extractor
- With the 16 mm wrench rotate clockwise
- Remove the extractor tool
- Repeat on the other side
Install Crank extractor tool
screw the extractor tool gently in
it is designed to go in nice and smooth, by hand!
hand tighten the rear portion of the crank extractor
With the 16 mm wrench rotate clockwise
Remove the extractor tool
Repeat on the other side
Step 5
Remove Chain ring - not necessary
- Hold the back brake (or hold it in place with a zip tie)
- So the back wheel cant move, and the carbon belt holds the chain ring in place
- with the Bosch chain ring lock ring removal tool on a 1/2" ratchet loosen the lock ring on the chain ring
- To loosen one needs to turn it to the right! (clockwise) [it is the opposite direction than usual]
- A significant force is needed to loosen the lockring
- In a later step, after the carbon belt is removed, the chain ring can easily be pulled down too
- The text must face outwards both on the chainring and the lockring
Hold the back brake (or hold it in place with a zip tie)
So the back wheel cant move, and the carbon belt holds the chain ring in place
with the Bosch chain ring lock ring removal tool on a 1/2" ratchet loosen the lock ring on the chain ring
To loosen one needs to turn it to the right! (clockwise) [it is the opposite direction than usual]
A significant force is needed to loosen the lockring
In a later step, after the carbon belt is removed, the chain ring can easily be pulled down too
The text must face outwards both on the chainring and the lockring
Step 6
Remove Belt guide
- With the help of a Philips 1 screwdriver remove the tiny screw holding the plastic guide in place
- After the screw is removed the plastic can be slid off to the side
With the help of a Philips 1 screwdriver remove the tiny screw holding the plastic guide in place
After the screw is removed the plastic can be slid off to the side
Step 7
Remove Chain ring
- Loosen the back wheel bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel and move the rear wheel out vertically for a few centimeters
- Thus no tension is on the belt
- slide the belt and chain ring off the drive train axel
- Do not put too big force on belt (bending etc)
- Slide the remaining double metal ring off
- Slide the underlying black sealing ring off
Loosen the back wheel bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel and move the rear wheel out vertically for a few centimeters
Thus no tension is on the belt
slide the belt and chain ring off the drive train axel
Do not put too big force on belt (bending etc)
Slide the remaining double metal ring off
Slide the underlying black sealing ring off
Step 8
Remove Bosch Drive unit Cover
- On the right side:
- Remove the 2 screws closer to the front with the help of a 3mm hex key
- When the plastic is a bit loose, a black plastic distance holder can be slid out from between the frame and plastic cover
On the right side:
Remove the 2 screws closer to the front with the help of a 3mm hex key
When the plastic is a bit loose, a black plastic distance holder can be slid out from between the frame and plastic cover
Step 9
- Proceed using a T25 torx screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the plastic cover in place on the right side of the frame
- approximately where earlier the belt placeholder was
- After all these screws (4 in total on this side) are removed, the plastic cover can be lifted and removed
- Proceed to the other side
Proceed using a T25 torx screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the plastic cover in place on the right side of the frame
approximately where earlier the belt placeholder was
After all these screws (4 in total on this side) are removed, the plastic cover can be lifted and removed
Proceed to the other side
Step 10
- On the left side of the frame:
- Using the 3mm hex key, remove the small screw in the deep hole
- This screw has a length of 11,5mm
On the left side of the frame:
Using the 3mm hex key, remove the small screw in the deep hole
This screw has a length of 11,5mm
Step 11
- Remove the two (identical) lower screws with the 3mm hex key
- On this bike type, the frame could take bigger screws, thats why the first screw has a longer “neck”. In one case this came out directly, when unscrewing the screw.
- If this extra does not come out, then it can be removed with a big flat head screwdriver (size 8) later on, but must not necessary be removed
- These screws are 17,5 mm long
- Lift off the plastic cover
Remove the two (identical) lower screws with the 3mm hex key
On this bike type, the frame could take bigger screws, thats why the first screw has a longer “neck”. In one case this came out directly, when unscrewing the screw.
If this extra does not come out, then it can be removed with a big flat head screwdriver (size 8) later on, but must not necessary be removed
These screws are 17,5 mm long
Lift off the plastic cover
Step 12
Remove Bosch Drive unit holder
- Since the frame holds the unit in place, the drive unit holder screws can be removed before the cables are
- However, make sure, the drive unit does not fall out of place!
- Remove the two torx screws with a T30 torx screwdriver
Since the frame holds the unit in place, the drive unit holder screws can be removed before the cables are
However, make sure, the drive unit does not fall out of place!
Remove the two torx screws with a T30 torx screwdriver
Step 13
- Remove the two nuts with a 13mm socket and ratchet
Remove the two nuts with a 13mm socket and ratchet
Step 14
Disconnect Bosch drive unit cables
- Never pull directly on the cables!
- Remove the biggest cable, the battery cable:
- Using a flat head screwdriver loosen the catch 1-2mm
- Using pliers disconnect the plug of the powerpack
Never pull directly on the cables!
Remove the biggest cable, the battery cable:
Using a flat head screwdriver loosen the catch 1-2mm
Using pliers disconnect the plug of the powerpack
Step 15
- These images show how the original cableing was and serves as a reminder of all 4+1 plugs in place (battery pack plug is disconnected already)
These images show how the original cableing was and serves as a reminder of all 4+1 plugs in place (battery pack plug is disconnected already)
Step 16
Remove plug and cable of back lamp
- Located in 3. place from the left is the back lamp’s cable and plug
- It runs directly to the back of the bike and exits the drive units frame part on a hole around the kickstand just below the rear fender
- The cable runs through the inner side of the rear fender and ends in the back lamp
Located in 3. place from the left is the back lamp’s cable and plug
It runs directly to the back of the bike and exits the drive units frame part on a hole around the kickstand just below the rear fender
The cable runs through the inner side of the rear fender and ends in the back lamp
Step 17
Remove plug and cable of Bosch sensor
- From the 4. socket remove the plug of the bosch sensor
- The cable goes directly inside the left back fork and exits just before the sensors place
From the 4. socket remove the plug of the bosch sensor
The cable goes directly inside the left back fork and exits just before the sensors place
Step 18
Remove Plug going to intuvia board computer
- Remove the flat plug and unwind the cables
- The cable enters the inside of the frame in the middle and exits on the left side on the biggest hole, runs up the frame and to the board computer mount
Remove the flat plug and unwind the cables
The cable enters the inside of the frame in the middle and exits on the left side on the biggest hole, runs up the frame and to the board computer mount
Step 19
Remove the plug of the front light
- The first socket is for the front light and goes straight throw the middle of the frame, and out on the biggest whole
- Runs along the fork and up to the light
The first socket is for the front light and goes straight throw the middle of the frame, and out on the biggest whole
Runs along the fork and up to the light
Step 20
Remove Drive Unit
- When all plugs are unplugged, the last nut can also be loosened with the 13mm socket
- The drive unit can be shifted horizontally to the other side.
When all plugs are unplugged, the last nut can also be loosened with the 13mm socket
The drive unit can be shifted horizontally to the other side.
Step 21
Drive unit removal
- Keep the long place holder on the two long screws on top of the drive unit
- Keep small place holder on the lower long screw as well!
Keep the long place holder on the two long screws on top of the drive unit
Keep small place holder on the lower long screw as well!
Step 22
Remove the black design cover
- Remove the screw next to the battery charging port with a PH1 Screwdriver [marked with red circle]
- This screw is the smallest of the three types
- Remove the upper screw with a 3 mm hex key on both sides. (2x in total) [marked with blue circle on this side]
- These screws are slightly longer and thinner, than the lowest screws
Remove the screw next to the battery charging port with a PH1 Screwdriver [marked with red circle]
This screw is the smallest of the three types
Remove the upper screw with a 3 mm hex key on both sides. (2x in total) [marked with blue circle on this side]
These screws are slightly longer and thinner, than the lowest screws
Step 23
- Remove the lower screw on one side.
- This lower screw is thicker and shorter, than the upper hex screw
- The screw on the other side can also be removed, however its better left and simply shifted to the side (there is a spacer inbetween held in place with these two screws)!
- After the 4 screws are removed, the black cover can be taken off (comes in two pieces) sideways
Remove the lower screw on one side.
This lower screw is thicker and shorter, than the upper hex screw
The screw on the other side can also be removed, however its better left and simply shifted to the side (there is a spacer inbetween held in place with these two screws)!
After the 4 screws are removed, the black cover can be taken off (comes in two pieces) sideways
Step 24
Remove Battery Mounting Cover
- For removing the plastic cover of lower battery holding part
- Remove the two black screws from the black plastic with a T15 torx screwdriver
- Release the catch on the lower side (facing the back fork/drive unit)
- By taking the plastic parts apart, the outer shell can be removed
For removing the plastic cover of lower battery holding part
Remove the two black screws from the black plastic with a T15 torx screwdriver
Release the catch on the lower side (facing the back fork/drive unit)
By taking the plastic parts apart, the outer shell can be removed
Step 25
Remove the battery plug
- First remove the cables with smaller plugs through the rectangular hole
- Carefully, not to bend (and break) cables and plugs
- After all other cables removed, the battery plug fits the big hole on its own
First remove the cables with smaller plugs through the rectangular hole
Carefully, not to bend (and break) cables and plugs
After all other cables removed, the battery plug fits the big hole on its own
Step 26
- Remove the two torx screws with a T25 torx screwdriver
Remove the two torx screws with a T25 torx screwdriver
Step 27
- For the upper cover
- Using the T15 torx screwdriver remove the black screw from the low end
- lift the cover gently (lift outwards around the lock)
- after fidgeting around, lifting the right side helped
For the upper cover
Using the T15 torx screwdriver remove the black screw from the low end
lift the cover gently (lift outwards around the lock)
after fidgeting around, lifting the right side helped
Step 28
- With the help of a T25 screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the upper (locking mechanism) to the frame
- When both screws are removed, the lock can be lifted (removed)
- The plus is on the upper side
- Underlying cable holder plastic can also be lifted
- the higher fences show to the upper side, also the narrower side is on the top
- There may be a plate under the lower screw between the frame and the lock (10)
- But could also be below the upper one (04)
With the help of a T25 screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the upper (locking mechanism) to the frame
When both screws are removed, the lock can be lifted (removed)
The plus is on the upper side
Underlying cable holder plastic can also be lifted
the higher fences show to the upper side, also the narrower side is on the top
There may be a plate under the lower screw between the frame and the lock (10)
But could also be below the upper one (04)
Step 29
Remove front brake lever for easier handling
- Remove grip on right side
- Loosen the brake lever and pull it off the handle
- Alternatively unscrew the holding part on the fork with 3mm hex key
Remove grip on right side
Loosen the brake lever and pull it off the handle
Alternatively unscrew the holding part on the fork with 3mm hex key
Step 30
Remove the front fork (and wheel)
- Remove - if any - protective/design rubber cap on stem
- Loosen the stem with a 5mm allen key.
- Loosen the two bolts on the side of the stem with the 5mm allen key
Remove - if any - protective/design rubber cap on stem
Loosen the stem with a 5mm allen key.
Loosen the two bolts on the side of the stem with the 5mm allen key
Step 31
- Carefully lift the handle bar off the fork
- Lift the two consecutive spacers off
- Lift off the bearing cap
Carefully lift the handle bar off the fork
Lift the two consecutive spacers off
Lift off the bearing cap
Step 32
Remove Front fork bearings
- Remove upper bearing
- The flat part must be facing upwards, the cornered part downwards into the frame
- The lower bearing can be left on the front fork
Remove upper bearing
The flat part must be facing upwards, the cornered part downwards into the frame
The lower bearing can be left on the front fork
Step 33
Remove Nuvinci shift cables
- shift pedals to a position that allows easy access to the shift cable hardware
- Remove the shift cable hardware ends
- Open the securing closing mechanism on the lower one (open and lift)
- Remove the cable end from its socket
shift pedals to a position that allows easy access to the shift cable hardware
Remove the shift cable hardware ends
Open the securing closing mechanism on the lower one (open and lift)
Remove the cable end from its socket
Step 34
- Remove the upper cable’s end from its socket
- The cable with no closing mechanism comes on the top part, and the closing mechanism closes in from the bottom on the top
Remove the upper cable’s end from its socket
The cable with no closing mechanism comes on the top part, and the closing mechanism closes in from the bottom on the top
Step 35
Remove rear wheel
- Loosen the bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel
- Remove the rear wheel carefully, not to damage the belt!
Loosen the bolts with the 15mm wrench on both sides of the rear axel
Remove the rear wheel carefully, not to damage the belt!
Step 36
Disassemble the frame
- Remove rear facing bolt with 5mm allen key
Remove rear facing bolt with 5mm allen key
Step 37
- Slide the black part out of the frame (pointy part faces backwards)
Slide the black part out of the frame (pointy part faces backwards)
Step 38
- To remove the bolt that held the long screw and black part in place,
- use a small but long tool (nail or screwdriver) and put it in the hole, where the removed screw was previously, but not through the upper part of the frame, but diagonally from the outside - thus the bolt can be slightly pushed out of the frame
- Grab this slightly outlying bit with a plier and pull it out
To remove the bolt that held the long screw and black part in place,
use a small but long tool (nail or screwdriver) and put it in the hole, where the removed screw was previously, but not through the upper part of the frame, but diagonally from the outside - thus the bolt can be slightly pushed out of the frame
Grab this slightly outlying bit with a plier and pull it out
Step 39
Remove Bike rack (after light cable released)
- Do not remove the bike rack (the mud guard) while the back light is still attached to the motor!
- Loosen the two bolts on the rear part of the frame with 4 mm allen key
Do not remove the bike rack (the mud guard) while the back light is still attached to the motor!
Loosen the two bolts on the rear part of the frame with 4 mm allen key
Step 40
- The Bolt has multiple plates:
- a metal plate below the bolt head
- a cornered black plate , then comes the bike rack
- one metal between the bike rack and the frame
- Main goal is to strip everything from the frame, thus the rest of the bike racks screws do not have to be removed, since the complete bike fender must be removed
The Bolt has multiple plates:
a metal plate below the bolt head
a cornered black plate , then comes the bike rack
one metal between the bike rack and the frame
Main goal is to strip everything from the frame, thus the rest of the bike racks screws do not have to be removed, since the complete bike fender must be removed
Step 41
Remove The Rear Fender from the frame
- Remove the two screws holding it to the frame’s middle (back frame’s triangle’s corners)
- There are two (1-1) black plastic/rubber plates between the fender and the frame on the screws
- In total the bike rack and rear fender are connected with 4 screws to the frame
Remove the two screws holding it to the frame’s middle (back frame’s triangle’s corners)
There are two (1-1) black plastic/rubber plates between the fender and the frame on the screws
In total the bike rack and rear fender are connected with 4 screws to the frame
Step 42
Remove Belt
- Carefully remove the Belt through the frame
- Watch out not to bend the belt, or damage it in any way
Carefully remove the Belt through the frame
Watch out not to bend the belt, or damage it in any way
Step 43
Storeing the Belt
- For storage purpose you can coil the belt by holding it on the two sides, and turning one hand inwards, the other outwards.
- If you feel resistance, STOP!
- It should coil easily (in three loops)
- This video shows the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgM-qeHG…
- Uncoiling: find the outermost circle, and slowly start to straighten it out. The Belt will uncoil on its own
- If you feel resistance, STOP!
- Uncoiling the belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slFf0q1I…
For storage purpose you can coil the belt by holding it on the two sides, and turning one hand inwards, the other outwards.
If you feel resistance, STOP!
It should coil easily (in three loops)
This video shows the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgM-qeHG…
Uncoiling: find the outermost circle, and slowly start to straighten it out. The Belt will uncoil on its own
Uncoiling the belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slFf0q1I…
Step 44
Remove bike stand
- Loosen the two front facing bolts with the 5mm hex key
- Curved side must face backwards (obviously, as the stand must look backwards…)
Loosen the two front facing bolts with the 5mm hex key
Curved side must face backwards (obviously, as the stand must look backwards…)
Step 45
Remove rear wheel holder
- Remove the longer front facing screws (with neck) from the rear end on both sides with 4 mm hex key
- those setting the tightness of the belt by adjusting the position of the wheel holder
Remove the longer front facing screws (with neck) from the rear end on both sides with 4 mm hex key
those setting the tightness of the belt by adjusting the position of the wheel holder
Step 46
- Cut the zip ties holding the brake cable on the frame with a wire cutter or remove other fixating elements
- Remove the screws on both sides (2x2) holding the wheel holder in place with 6mm hex key
- The plate comes between the bolt head and the frame!
Cut the zip ties holding the brake cable on the frame with a wire cutter or remove other fixating elements
Remove the screws on both sides (2x2) holding the wheel holder in place with 6mm hex key
The plate comes between the bolt head and the frame!
Step 47
Remove Bosch speed sensor
- Remove the rubber cap by hand
- Remove the locking screw with a T20 torx screwdriver
- The speed sensor’s cable is going through the frame
Remove the rubber cap by hand
Remove the locking screw with a T20 torx screwdriver
The speed sensor’s cable is going through the frame
Step 48
Rear Brake cable
- The rear break levers’ “cable” (on the right) is tied together with the Intuvia board computers fat cabel and goes down the frame on the right side
- After the Battery, it crosses and exits the black part on the left side (as single cable) and goes on the top part of the rear frame
The rear break levers’ “cable” (on the right) is tied together with the Intuvia board computers fat cabel and goes down the frame on the right side
After the Battery, it crosses and exits the black part on the left side (as single cable) and goes on the top part of the rear frame
Step 49
NuVinci gear shifter cable setup
- The NuVinci gear shifter is on the right side.
- The cables are tied together with the supernova lamp’s thin cable (in comparison to Intuvias thicker cable) .
- These cables go down on the left side of the frame. Then cross under the black part below the battery and exit on the right side (only the two Nuvinci cables from here). Then it goes down to the inner part of the frame’s back triangle and has three plastic holders.
The NuVinci gear shifter is on the right side.
The cables are tied together with the supernova lamp’s thin cable (in comparison to Intuvias thicker cable) .
These cables go down on the left side of the frame. Then cross under the black part below the battery and exit on the right side (only the two Nuvinci cables from here). Then it goes down to the inner part of the frame’s back triangle and has three plastic holders.
Step 50
- Remove the 3x screws, keeping the cable holders in place, with a 3mm hex key
- The frame is upside down for easier work conditions on the image
Remove the 3x screws, keeping the cable holders in place, with a 3mm hex key
The frame is upside down for easier work conditions on the image
Step 51
Remove cable guide and black design cover holder plate
- Underlying metal holder (and cable aligner) is held in place by a 3mm hex screw
- A big diametered washer is under the screw head
- Below is the placeholder
Underlying metal holder (and cable aligner) is held in place by a 3mm hex screw
A big diametered washer is under the screw head
Below is the placeholder
Step 52
Remove Front fork bearing holders
- The one on top has sharper corners
- The one on the bottom is fully rounded
- They can either be removed with a specific tool, or with a chisel and a hammer (possibly rubber hammer)
- Be careful with this step not to damage the rings inner side - might even ask for the help at a local bike shop
The one on top has sharper corners
The one on the bottom is fully rounded
They can either be removed with a specific tool, or with a chisel and a hammer (possibly rubber hammer)
Be careful with this step not to damage the rings inner side - might even ask for the help at a local bike shop
Step 53
Remove screw hole changers
- Before painting the fork these small parts can be removed with a wide flat head screwdriver (8), but do not have to necessarily
- This step can be skipped, especially, because these can easily be damaged, and are sometimes difficult to remove
Before painting the fork these small parts can be removed with a wide flat head screwdriver (8), but do not have to necessarily
This step can be skipped, especially, because these can easily be damaged, and are sometimes difficult to remove
Step 54
Prepare for painting
- Check with paint shop if the wholes should be protected
- If needed - insert (short) screws in all places, where there were any before, to save their guideway (14 small type screws, 7 bigger type)
- And the frame is ready for a fresh new paint!!!
Check with paint shop if the wholes should be protected
If needed - insert (short) screws in all places, where there were any before, to save their guideway (14 small type screws, 7 bigger type)
And the frame is ready for a fresh new paint!!!
Step 55
Additional empty wholes
- There are 2x2 unused bolts on either (inner) side of the frames back triangles top tube
- Additional two unused bolts are just over the rear fender facing slightly upward
There are 2x2 unused bolts on either (inner) side of the frames back triangles top tube
Additional two unused bolts are just over the rear fender facing slightly upward
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Except for the nuvinci cable setting - this has to be adjusted at the end, when the back wheel is set to the right position and belt tension
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Bango Bejla
Member since: 11/08/2016
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Rares Alexandru Murza - Apr 20, 2022
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Do you have any photos of the frame after it’s been painted?
Bango Bejla - May 4, 2022
Yes, I updated the main picture to show the frame after the paint job :)