Dyson Dc52 Motor And Carbon Brushes Removal And Inspection Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          15 minutes

Sections

Disassembling
10 steps
Motor, Carbon Brushes
7 steps

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Introduction

There is a risk of injury if instructions are not properly followed. Be careful and heed all warnings.

With these instructions you will only open flat plugs, so that the risk is limited.

Pull out the power plug before startingDo not pull the cables with forceWhen reassembling, rewire correctly and make sure the tabs are engaged in the connectors to prevent them from vibrating looseIf the cable or strands are defective, replace them

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the chassis

Turn the unit over and remove the 4 Torx T15, 18mm pan head screws.

Turn the unit over and remove the 4 Torx T15, 18mm pan head screws.

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Step 2

              Remove the wheels

Remove the T15 21mm countersunk head screw and pull the wheel off (on each side)

Remove the T15 21mm countersunk head screw and pull the wheel off (on each side)

Step 3

              Remove the screws in the case

Remove the 8 Torx T15, 22mm pan head screws from the bottom and 2 from the top. (only one side visible in the picture)

Remove the 8 Torx T15, 22mm pan head screws from the bottom and 2 from the top. (only one side visible in the picture)

Step 4

              Remove the screws on the upper air pipe

Press the button to release the dust container.
Carefully press the locking lugs inwards with a screwdriver or by hand until the upper part with the suction tube can be folded further upwards.
Then another 2 Torx T15, 18 mm cylinder head screws become visible, which are removed (they fasten the cable drum on the inside).

Press the button to release the dust container.

Carefully press the locking lugs inwards with a screwdriver or by hand until the upper part with the suction tube can be folded further upwards.

Then another 2 Torx T15, 18 mm cylinder head screws become visible, which are removed (they fasten the cable drum on the inside).

Step 5

              Loosen the intake manifold holder screw

Loosen the one PH2 screw of the intake manifold holder (it fastens the cable drum on the inside).

Loosen the one PH2 screw of the intake manifold holder (it fastens the cable drum on the inside).

Step 6

              Remove the lower case

Carefully pull the case halves apart. You now have the HEPA filter and the cable drum in the upper half and the motor in the motor capsule in the lower half.

Carefully pull the case halves apart. You now have the HEPA filter and the cable drum in the upper half and the motor in the motor capsule in the lower half.

Step 7

              Remove the upper case

The upper part is clipped into the housing with 2 locking lugs. They unhook with a screwdriver and some hand wiggling. Don’t grab the HEPA filter too tightly as it is made of paper and is easily dented.

The upper part is clipped into the housing with 2 locking lugs. They unhook with a screwdriver and some hand wiggling. Don’t grab the HEPA filter too tightly as it is made of paper and is easily dented.

Step 8

              Loose the cable from the motor

The switch is on the cable drum. The cable is connected to a spade connector which is secured by a fine tab to prevent vibration from loosening it. If you press on the lug with a fine screwdriver, the connection can be released without too much force. Disconnect the black cable.
Next to it is a long, black box in which the white cable is plugged. Press the lug with the screwdriver here as well and loosen the plug connection.
Then carefully pull both cables out of the strain relief on the housing.
Now you have mechanically and electrically separated the motor from the cable drum.

The switch is on the cable drum. The cable is connected to a spade connector which is secured by a fine tab to prevent vibration from loosening it. If you press on the lug with a fine screwdriver, the connection can be released without too much force. Disconnect the black cable.

Next to it is a long, black box in which the white cable is plugged. Press the lug with the screwdriver here as well and loosen the plug connection.

Then carefully pull both cables out of the strain relief on the housing.

Now you have mechanically and electrically separated the motor from the cable drum.

Step 9

              Remove HEPA filter

To separate the cable reel and the HEPA filter, hold the HEPA filter carefully and turn the cable reel approx. 90° clockwise. Then both parts can be separated.

To separate the cable reel and the HEPA filter, hold the HEPA filter carefully and turn the cable reel approx. 90° clockwise. Then both parts can be separated.

Step 10

Done. You have separated the essential main parts.
The cable reel, the HEPA filter and the motor can be easily obtained as spare parts on the Internet. The filter is available for around 60 euros, the motor and cable drum for around 80 euros.

Done. You have separated the essential main parts.

The cable reel, the HEPA filter and the motor can be easily obtained as spare parts on the Internet. The filter is available for around 60 euros, the motor and cable drum for around 80 euros.

Step 11

              Checking the Cable

Carefully release the black and the white cable from the strain relief on the motor housing.
Check for cable breakage and damage to the insulation

Carefully release the black and the white cable from the strain relief on the motor housing.

Check for cable breakage and damage to the insulation

Step 12

              Grommet

Press the cable grommet inwards with your finger or a screwdriver (be careful not to damage the cable insulation).

Press the cable grommet inwards with your finger or a screwdriver (be careful not to damage the cable insulation).

Step 13

              Opening the housing

Open the 3 clips of the motor housing with the screwdriver
Remove the 3 rubber wedges and pull the motor out upwards

Open the 3 clips of the motor housing with the screwdriver

Remove the 3 rubber wedges and pull the motor out upwards

Step 14

              Unplug the Cable

If you want to remove the cable from the motor, carefully press on the lug so that the blade terminal sleeve can be easily pulled off.
Some versions have insulated plugs, some don’t

If you want to remove the cable from the motor, carefully press on the lug so that the blade terminal sleeve can be easily pulled off.

Some versions have insulated plugs, some don’t

Step 15

              Visual Inspection (optional)

It may be useful to blow the engine clean with a compressed air gun.
Check that the rotor turns easily by hand. If not, the engine cannot be saved.
Look at the collector. Is it clean and are the carbon brushes on?
Look inside the motor and check for discolored windings. Check the interference suppression capacitor for abnormalities.

It may be useful to blow the engine clean with a compressed air gun.

Check that the rotor turns easily by hand. If not, the engine cannot be saved.

Look at the collector. Is it clean and are the carbon brushes on?

Look inside the motor and check for discolored windings. Check the interference suppression capacitor for abnormalities.

Step 16

              Electrical Test (optional)

Check between the terminals with an ohmmeter. Turn the rotor a bit, wait until the reading is constant.
Fluctuating and high values can indicate defective windings and/or poor contact of the carbon brushes.
I’ve had two single motors, 5.8-6.0 and 5.6-6.5 ohms respectively, that run fine. One had between 7.6 and 9.2 ohms, this one still ran but had a strong collector fire, which could not be remedied by replacing the carbon brushes.
A test with main voltage is possible, but dangerous and only recommended for people who are familiar with it (electricians). Clamp the motor housing as a loose motor can move violently when powered up. Switch on from a safe distance
If you have a DC power supply, you can also use it to test. At 10V the good motors had 0.9 to 1 A, the bad and 0.7. At around 5 V the motor starts to turn.

Check between the terminals with an ohmmeter. Turn the rotor a bit, wait until the reading is constant.

Fluctuating and high values can indicate defective windings and/or poor contact of the carbon brushes.

I’ve had two single motors, 5.8-6.0 and 5.6-6.5 ohms respectively, that run fine. One had between 7.6 and 9.2 ohms, this one still ran but had a strong collector fire, which could not be remedied by replacing the carbon brushes.

A test with main voltage is possible, but dangerous and only recommended for people who are familiar with it (electricians). Clamp the motor housing as a loose motor can move violently when powered up. Switch on from a safe distance

If you have a DC power supply, you can also use it to test. At 10V the good motors had 0.9 to 1 A, the bad and 0.7. At around 5 V the motor starts to turn.

Step 17

              Replacing the Carbon Brushes (optional)

An engine costs between 70 and 80 euros as an original spare part. There are Chinese replicas for 30 euros.
A set of carbon brushes costs between 10 and 20 euros but does not solve all problems, if the motor shows other problems (see steps 5 and 6) then a motor is more worthwhile than a set of carbon brushes.
To replace the carbon brushes, loosen the PH1 screw and pull the carbon brushes radially outwards.

An engine costs between 70 and 80 euros as an original spare part. There are Chinese replicas for 30 euros.

A set of carbon brushes costs between 10 and 20 euros but does not solve all problems, if the motor shows other problems (see steps 5 and 6) then a motor is more worthwhile than a set of carbon brushes.

To replace the carbon brushes, loosen the PH1 screw and pull the carbon brushes radially outwards.

Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.

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What you need#

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need