Disassembling Hp Elitebook 840 G1 Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

19

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 2 hours            

Sections

1

• Disassembling HP Elitebook 840 G1
• 19 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Lay the computer on a flat surface, with the LCD facing down and the basecover facing up.               

• You need to be able to see the latch and screws to disassemble.

You need to be able to see the latch and screws to disassemble.

1024

Step 2

              Unlock the bottom cover by sliding the latch (circled in red) to the left.               

• The bottom cover will then slide towards the bottom of the picture, and can be removed.

The bottom cover will then slide towards the bottom of the picture, and can be removed.

Step 3

              Remove the bottom cover and undo the two battery latches. Then, remove the battery.               

• One of the latches is spring-loaded, and will need to be held in the unlocked position.

One of the latches is spring-loaded, and will need to be held in the unlocked position.

Step 4

              You can then unlatch and remove both the HDD and RAM modules.               

• The HDD is held in by four Philips screws, while the RAM module has two spring-loaded arms.
• The RAM’s spring-loaded arms just need to be pushed away from the RAM module, and the module will then pop up and can be slid out.

The HDD is held in by four Philips screws, while the RAM module has two spring-loaded arms.

The RAM’s spring-loaded arms just need to be pushed away from the RAM module, and the module will then pop up and can be slid out.

Step 5

              Remove the wireless card.               

• The two red circles indicate where antennas plugged in. They simply pop upwards.
• The card is then held in by a single screw.

The two red circles indicate where antennas plugged in. They simply pop upwards.

The card is then held in by a single screw.

Step 6

              Pry out the rubber screw covers and remove the T-9 TORQ screws that are holding the basecover onto the chassis.               

• There is also a screw in the bottom right corner, which isn’t pictured.

There is also a screw in the bottom right corner, which isn’t pictured.

Step 7

              Loosen the keyboard screws, and pop the keyboard out for removal in the next step.               

• The two screws are spring-loaded and won’t come all the way out. They just need to be loose.
• There is a gap next to the unit’s fan (circled in red) large enough for a screwdriver to pop the keyboard loose. Simply push down.
• You might have more success if you open the unit and stand it on it’s side prior to popping the keyboard loose.

The two screws are spring-loaded and won’t come all the way out. They just need to be loose.

There is a gap next to the unit’s fan (circled in red) large enough for a screwdriver to pop the keyboard loose. Simply push down.

You might have more success if you open the unit and stand it on it’s side prior to popping the keyboard loose.

Step 8

              Now open the unit, and unlatch the keyboard from above.               

• You should pull the top edge loose, and slide the keyboard upward.

You should pull the top edge loose, and slide the keyboard upward.

Step 9

              The keyboard is held on by three ribbon cables. They should be detached.               

• The cable on the left can be removed from either the keyboard or the systemboard.
• Ribbon cables are held onto their connectors by a small plastic locking latch. Those latches lift up, and the cable slides out.

The cable on the left can be removed from either the keyboard or the systemboard.

Ribbon cables are held onto their connectors by a small plastic locking latch. Those latches lift up, and the cable slides out.

Step 10

              Once the keyboard is removed, disconnect the two ribbon cables that are connected to the systemboard from the top cover.               

• There is one on the left, and one on the right. Both are partially pictured, but were cut from the image during cropping.

There is one on the left, and one on the right. Both are partially pictured, but were cut from the image during cropping.

Step 11

              Flip the unit back over, and complete removing the base cover's screws.               

• These are Philips-head, and have been circled in red.

These are Philips-head, and have been circled in red.

Step 12

              The base cover can then be vertically lifted.               

• I find it easiest to lift from the bottom left.

I find it easiest to lift from the bottom left.

Step 13

              The unit's systemboard should now be exposed.               

• If you’re repairing a user-damaged machine, this would be a great place to look for spill damage.
• You’ll notice that the top of this unit has spill damage to the systemboard, speakers, and top cover.

If you’re repairing a user-damaged machine, this would be a great place to look for spill damage.

You’ll notice that the top of this unit has spill damage to the systemboard, speakers, and top cover.

Step 14

              Remove the three systemboard screws.               

• They’re circled in red.

They’re circled in red.

Step 15

              Detach the unit's wireless cables from the systemboard.               

• I recommend pulling the tape and plastic protectors (circled at the bottom) off and setting them someplace safe. The tape isn’t easy to replace if damaged or folded.
• The plug in the top left is actually for the speakers, not the wireless card, but is wedging the wireless cables into their plastic guide.

I recommend pulling the tape and plastic protectors (circled at the bottom) off and setting them someplace safe. The tape isn’t easy to replace if damaged or folded.

The plug in the top left is actually for the speakers, not the wireless card, but is wedging the wireless cables into their plastic guide.

Step 16

              Detach the fan, power board cable, and LCD cable.               

• The fan is also held by a screw in the bottom right. This was partially cut off in the image.

The fan is also held by a screw in the bottom right. This was partially cut off in the image.

Step 17

              Remove the heat sink, and unlatch the left end of the last remaining ribbon cable.               

• The ribbon cable doesn’t need to fully be removed. Only the left side is needed to get the systemboard out.

The ribbon cable doesn’t need to fully be removed. Only the left side is needed to get the systemboard out.

Step 18

              The systemboard can now be removed. While holding the ribbon cable back, lift the board - starting on the right side.               

• If there is any resistance you should double-check that all cables and screws have been removed or disconnected.

If there is any resistance you should double-check that all cables and screws have been removed or disconnected.

Step 19

              The system has then been disassembled, aside from a few minor and self-explanatory parts, and is ready to be rebuilt.               

• The cable on the bottom left goes to a thumbprint scanner, while the cables on the right belong to the unit’s SC Reader.
• The power board in the top left is also removable, but normally doesn’t need replacement, and the two hinges can be loosened to pull the LCD assembly off of this top cover.

The cable on the bottom left goes to a thumbprint scanner, while the cables on the right belong to the unit’s SC Reader.

The power board in the top left is also removable, but normally doesn’t need replacement, and the two hinges can be loosened to pull the LCD assembly off of this top cover.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    thiswaywardmind                     

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kenaddams - Aug 13, 2015

Reply

Hi, thank you for this guide !

I successfully managed in disassembling my Elitebook 840 and change the fan.

-However-, when reassembling it, I was surprised to see that my touchpad doesn’t work anymore (but the mouse nipple works perfectly). I don’t really understand because I didn’t disconnect anything except the keyboard (that is not connected on the same ribbon cables, so…).

I tried to reinitialize it from the Windows panel, but no luck.

Do you have an idea of what could be wrong ?

Thank you,

Ken.

thiswaywardmind - Oct 12, 2015

Hi Ken,

Sorry I missed this!

Is the little orange light lit in the top-right of your touchpad? If so, double-tap on it and the touchpad should re-enable.

If the light isn’t lit, that touchpad connects to the board under the battery (right side). You should double-check those cables, and then double-check where that board connects to the systemboard under your keyboard. My bet is that something is loose along that path.

Good luck!

Nic

Shaun - Dec 30, 2015

Reply

Great guide.

Unfortunately due to my the speed my keyboard popped-off I broke the thin white cable in step 9. I seem to have lost backlit functionality from my keyboard but everything else is working okay. I’m assuming that’s what that ribbon does but I could be incorrect. Any idea what that cable does exactly?

thiswaywardmind - Sep 30, 2016

Hi Shaun,

I know this is about 9 months too late, but I’m sorry to hear that the cable ripped. They are definitely pretty fragile.

Aside from the backlight, the functionality of the track point might be impacted. I wouldn’t expect any other issues, though, so at least the damage is limited in scale.

Good luck on your next project!

Best,

Joseph Richardson - Sep 5, 2016

Reply

I wish you had done the screen as well in your tear down, just so people know how easy the screen is to take off. I replaced my screen with a higher resolution a few months ago and it took me all of 15 minutes to do most of that time was just taking off the bezel but once that is off it’s only 4 screws and unplugging the connection ribbon. Once you place the new screen and hooked up there is 4 holders so you can turn your computer on before screwing the screen on just to make sure the part is in good working condition.