Difficulty
Very easy
Steps
8
Time Required
15 minutes
Sections
1
- Trap Door Side Support
- 8 steps
Flags
2
In Progress
This guide is a work in progress. Reload periodically to see the latest changes!
Member-Contributed Guide
An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.
BackDiaper Genie Elite
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications
Introduction
…And then realized the culprit was my wife, who did not know that the diapers should not be pushed through the trap doors.
What you need
Step 1
Trap Door Side Support
- Get your stuff together. You’ll be replacing one of the plastic side support tabs, just like the one I had already replaced.
Get your stuff together. You’ll be replacing one of the plastic side support tabs, just like the one I had already replaced.
1024
Step 2
- Unscrew these Phillips screws.
- Remove white plastic retainer thingy.
Unscrew these Phillips screws.
Remove white plastic retainer thingy.
Step 3
- Unscrew these Phillips screws.
- Now unscrew these Phillips screws!
- Pull out the whole assembly.
Now unscrew these Phillips screws!
Pull out the whole assembly.
Step 4
- Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill through the center of the original tab location until you have a nice, clean hole.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill through the center of the original tab location until you have a nice, clean hole.
Step 5
- I added an extra nut to the head of the screw so that there’s a more substantial edge for the plastic can parts to press onto.
- Screw the screw through the hole you’ve just created. It should stick out approximately 1/2" from the side of the mechanical assembly.
- The 1/8" drill bit created a slight “interference fit” with the #8-32 screws, meaning that the plastic from the hole keeps the screw nice and tight.
- Add a nut to the other side of the screw, just to hold it together.
- Do not overtighten, as you want to keep a gap between the trap door and the side of the mechanical assembly.
I added an extra nut to the head of the screw so that there’s a more substantial edge for the plastic can parts to press onto.
Screw the screw through the hole you’ve just created. It should stick out approximately 1/2" from the side of the mechanical assembly.
The 1/8" drill bit created a slight “interference fit” with the #8-32 screws, meaning that the plastic from the hole keeps the screw nice and tight.
Add a nut to the other side of the screw, just to hold it together.
Do not overtighten, as you want to keep a gap between the trap door and the side of the mechanical assembly.
Step 6
- Perform a little test to make sure everything works as it should. The mechanical actuation should open smoothly and quickly.
Perform a little test to make sure everything works as it should. The mechanical actuation should open smoothly and quickly.
Step 7
- Put the assembly back into place (without screwing it in), and verify that the actuator pole hits the screws at a good location.
- Adjust the length of screws if needed.
- Put everything back together in reverse order, including all the screws you took out.
Put the assembly back into place (without screwing it in), and verify that the actuator pole hits the screws at a good location.
Adjust the length of screws if needed.
Put everything back together in reverse order, including all the screws you took out.
Step 8
- OH $@$* SON!!!!!!
OH $@$* SON!!!!!!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
3 other people completed this guide.
Author
with 1 other contributor
Miroslav Djuric
156,282 Reputation
144 Guides authored
Badges:
54
+51 more badges
winfieldcohen - Jan 28, 2018
Reply
Works great now. Thank you Miroslav! You saved me $50. Appreciated
Todd - Feb 25, 2018
Reply
The same thing happened to my unit. I bought the same bolts (which you have referred to as screws) and nuts, drilled the 1/8-inch diameter hole and installed the bolts, making a few modifications. I used a #8 washer underneath of the bolt head instead of a nut as you did. I installed a #8 washer and nut on the free end of the bolt. However, there was not enough clearance to allow the mechanism to slide freely. So, I removed the washer and nut at the free end and reinstalled just the nut. With the small amount of additional clearance, the mechanism worked freely, just like new. Incidentally, the photograph that you have shown in Step 7 appears to have the free end of the bolt on the wrong side of the plastic piece that it is threaded through. The free end of the bolt needs to engage the curved slot on the other piece located on the opposite side. So, I was a bit confused, but figured it out. The 1/8-inch diameter drill hole worked perfectly. Just a warning to anyone: DON’T overtighten or plastic will crack.
Brandon Mueller - Aug 21, 2022
Reply
Awesome man! Saved me $50 and we were so close to potty training we really didn’t want to buy a new one!
I did put the screw in from the inside out though, opposite of the picture, and 1/8 was a little too small for my 8/32 but I just reamed it out a little and Bob’s your uncle. I also cut the bolt with my angle grinder just about even with the other plastic tab that had not broken off.