Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
15
Time Required
20 - 45 minutes
Sections
1
- Dell DJ 2nd Generation Disassembly
- 15 steps
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Introduction
While a soldering iron is required, I would still rate this as Moderate difficulty. You only need to use it for one joint.
What you need
Step 1
Remove lock switch slider
- The lock switch slider can be removed with a small prying tool. Make sure it doesn’t go flying across the room!
The lock switch slider can be removed with a small prying tool. Make sure it doesn’t go flying across the room!
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Step 2
Remove bottom cover
- The cover is affixed with adhesive. It can be pried off.
- Don’t start with an opening pick. Instead, use an iFixit Opening Tool and start around the charging port.
- When it’s lifted up far enough, wedge an opening pick between the case and the cover.
- If necessary, you can use the Jimmy to pry around the edges. Be gentle, as it’s very easy to damage the aluminum case.
The cover is affixed with adhesive. It can be pried off.
Don’t start with an opening pick. Instead, use an iFixit Opening Tool and start around the charging port.
When it’s lifted up far enough, wedge an opening pick between the case and the cover.
If necessary, you can use the Jimmy to pry around the edges. Be gentle, as it’s very easy to damage the aluminum case.
Step 3
Remove top cover
- The top cover put up more of a fight. I had to use the Jimmy for this one.
- Again, use caution to avoid damaging the case. It’s also important to avoid bending the top cover sharply.
The top cover put up more of a fight. I had to use the Jimmy for this one.
Again, use caution to avoid damaging the case. It’s also important to avoid bending the top cover sharply.
Step 4
Remove screws and metal plates
- There are eight Philips #00 screws, one on each corner at both ends of the device.
- I don’t recommend using tweezers to remove the plates like I did. You might bend the tips.
There are eight Philips #00 screws, one on each corner at both ends of the device.
I don’t recommend using tweezers to remove the plates like I did. You might bend the tips.
Step 5
Remove battery
- Be careful to avoid bending the battery. It is very thin and prone to damage.
- Disconnect the battery connector. Then, gently pull the wires until the battery slides out.
- If the battery doesn’t slide out, use a blunt but thin tool (such as the flat end of an iFixit Spudger) to push the battery from the other end.
Be careful to avoid bending the battery. It is very thin and prone to damage.
Disconnect the battery connector. Then, gently pull the wires until the battery slides out.
If the battery doesn’t slide out, use a blunt but thin tool (such as the flat end of an iFixit Spudger) to push the battery from the other end.
Step 6
Remove the navigation wheel
- Try something other than a Jimmy first. It can damage both the encoder’s housing and the aluminum case.
- It may help to push the internals towards the top slightly, but they won’t come out yet.
Try something other than a Jimmy first. It can damage both the encoder’s housing and the aluminum case.
It may help to push the internals towards the top slightly, but they won’t come out yet.
Step 7
Slide the guts out
- The internals should come out easily. If it seems to catch on something, wiggle it around gently.
- Be careful not to scratch the display.
The internals should come out easily. If it seems to catch on something, wiggle it around gently.
Be careful not to scratch the display.
Step 8
Remove the display (part 1)
- Lift up the tabs on both sides.
- Lift the left side of the display completely.
- Don’t force the tabs on the right; just unlatch them and push them up slightly so they don’t snap back into place.
Lift up the tabs on both sides.
Lift the left side of the display completely.
Don’t force the tabs on the right; just unlatch them and push them up slightly so they don’t snap back into place.
Step 9
Remove the display (part 2)
- Use your soldering iron to melt the solder holding the metal frame to the board. Use a small tool to gently pry the display up.
Use your soldering iron to melt the solder holding the metal frame to the board. Use a small tool to gently pry the display up.
Step 10
Remove the display (part 3)
- Push the ends of the brown latch towards the screen, then remove the display.
Push the ends of the brown latch towards the screen, then remove the display.
Step 11
Unscrew the hard drive
- There are four Philips #00 screws holding the hard drive in. They’re the same as the eight screws you removed earlier, so don’t worry about mixing them up.
There are four Philips #00 screws holding the hard drive in. They’re the same as the eight screws you removed earlier, so don’t worry about mixing them up.
Step 12
Disconnect the hard drive
- Peel back the red tape. Then, lift up the latch and pull the cable out.
Peel back the red tape. Then, lift up the latch and pull the cable out.
Step 13
Disconnect the hard drive (again)
- This connector is the same as the one on the mainboard. The latch is beige on this one.
This connector is the same as the one on the mainboard. The latch is beige on this one.
Step 14
Remove the hard drive from its frame
- Gently push on the label side of the hard drive to remove it from the frame.
Gently push on the label side of the hard drive to remove it from the frame.
Step 15
Remove the keypad
- Push the brown latch towards the keypad, then pull the cable out.
- The keypad is only held on by a bit of double-sided tape on the RAM chip.
Push the brown latch towards the keypad, then pull the cable out.
The keypad is only held on by a bit of double-sided tape on the RAM chip.
And you’re done!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Henry Jeynes
Member since: 08/06/2020
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