Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

8

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

1

  • Crank Arms
  • 8 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Crank Arms
  • Take cap off the crank arm with flat head screw driver. It should just pop off.

Take cap off the crank arm with flat head screw driver. It should just pop off.

1024

Step 2

  • Use a socket wrench to take out the main bolt.

Use a socket wrench to take out the main bolt.

Step 3

  • Attach the crank puller to the threads on the crank arm, hand tighten it in until it bottoms out.
  • Be careful not to strip the aluminum threading of the crank arm with the steel threading of the crank puller. Don’t force anything.

Attach the crank puller to the threads on the crank arm, hand tighten it in until it bottoms out.

Be careful not to strip the aluminum threading of the crank arm with the steel threading of the crank puller. Don’t force anything.

Step 4

  • Use wrench to tighten the free end of the crank arm, pulling the crank arm off the bike.

Use wrench to tighten the free end of the crank arm, pulling the crank arm off the bike.

Step 5

  • Clean the bottom bracket axle, crank arm, and sprockets with a rag.

Clean the bottom bracket axle, crank arm, and sprockets with a rag.

Step 6

  • Slide the new crank arm on the the tapered square of the bottom bracket axle.

Slide the new crank arm on the the tapered square of the bottom bracket axle.

Step 7

  • Use a socket wrench to tighten the main bolt.
  • It’s easy to cross thread the aluminum crank arm with the steel crank puller. Be very careful to thread properly.

Use a socket wrench to tighten the main bolt.

It’s easy to cross thread the aluminum crank arm with the steel crank puller. Be very careful to thread properly.

Step 8

  • Replace the cap.

Replace the cap.

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                                                                                      3 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 6 other contributors 


                    aaron thielk

Member since: 10/10/2010

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Team

                       Cal Poly, Team 5-13, Maness Fall 2010                        

                                                  Member of Cal Poly, Team 5-13, Maness Fall 2010 



                    CPSU-MANESS-F10S5G13                     


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                                            17 Guides authored

Mike - Jun 19, 2014

Reply

Hello, hope you can help

The resistance on my bike when going up hills is crazy I have take to a bike shop and had a full service which they did number of things changed BB along with other stuff.

Just checked it out on a ride and it still feels harder than usual on hills, on the flats it seems fine. I’m a serious triathlete and looking at going sub 9hr in Ironman Austria next week but seriously do not have the confidence in my bike now at all.

Example one week I was going up a hill doing 80 rpm and the next going up same hill and doing 50 rpm and that was a massive effort. Today went up a 10% hill and my wattage was 350+watts and my speed was 6 mph this is crazy. God if I would do go that high watts when climbing hills in Austria I would blow up.

This write up is pretty rushed as I’m pushed for time, hope you can help me on what it could be, my thoughts are now going have to get another service when out in Austria spending another £100+ and possibly still doesn’t get fixed.

jtw82 - Oct 1, 2014

Reply

Does your bike have gears? I’m not familiar with Triathlon bikes, sorry if question sounds silly. Hope you have found a fix

Martha Wilson - Apr 27, 2018

Reply

A short remark about how much force will then be needed to separate the old battery from the heated adhesive would be helpful. I found that even after I was able to begin the insertion of a plastic card between the battery and the case, it required a great deal of force to push the card further under the battery to complete the separation. Refer: free fnaf online

sallyjohn110 - Apr 9, 2019

Reply

BMX cranksets are commonly sold independently to the base section (BB) and chainrings, instead of as a solitary unit ‘chainset’. They comprise of the wrench arms, pivot (shaft) and any vital jolts and spacers. AssignmentGlobe