Cleaning Logitech Mx Master Repair Guide

Difficulty

Easy

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Time Required

                          15 - 30 minutes

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Cleaning Logitech MX Master
11 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              The Before Shot

That’s a lot of gunk!

That’s a lot of gunk!

1024

Step 2

              Removing the Feet

The mouse has four feet on the bottom, but only the two long ones need to be removed. I used the Jimmy from the Pro Tech Toolkit.
I didn’t have new feet on hand, so I had to reuse the original ones. This is why there’s no step for cleaning the adhesive off and putting new feet on.

The mouse has four feet on the bottom, but only the two long ones need to be removed. I used the Jimmy from the Pro Tech Toolkit.

I didn’t have new feet on hand, so I had to reuse the original ones. This is why there’s no step for cleaning the adhesive off and putting new feet on.

Step 3

              Screw Time!

Rev up those screwdrivers! The first wave consists of four PH1 and two T5 screws on the bottom.
Once those are taken care of, the mouse should be easy to pop open.

Rev up those screwdrivers! The first wave consists of four PH1 and two T5 screws on the bottom.

Once those are taken care of, the mouse should be easy to pop open.

Step 4

              Popping it Open

When opening the mouse take into account the position of the clamps so you won’t pop more than you want.

When opening the mouse take into account the position of the clamps so you won’t pop more than you want.

Step 5

              Ribbon cables.

Pop the connector open with whatever tool you find works best, unless you’re like me and accidentally pulled the cable out of the connector in the previous step.

Pop the connector open with whatever tool you find works best, unless you’re like me and accidentally pulled the cable out of the connector in the previous step.

Step 6

              Bottom Half

This is the part where I realize I need better lighting.
Set the top half aside for now. Removal of the battery consists of three PH1 screws and one connector that really doesn’t want to come loose.

This is the part where I realize I need better lighting.

Set the top half aside for now. Removal of the battery consists of three PH1 screws and one connector that really doesn’t want to come loose.

Step 7

              Bottom Half (continued)

Time for a bit change! The PCB housing the switches for left and right clicks comes off with four P0 screws and another ZIF connector.
The scroll wheel assembly is held in with two P0 screws at the front. There’s also a connector for the motor hiding under the ribbon cable for the PCB you just removed.
These screws aren’t visible in this step, but can be seen in the previous one. I’m terrible at taking pictures.
You can see some of the debris causing my scrolling issues in the last photo.

Time for a bit change! The PCB housing the switches for left and right clicks comes off with four P0 screws and another ZIF connector.

The scroll wheel assembly is held in with two P0 screws at the front. There’s also a connector for the motor hiding under the ribbon cable for the PCB you just removed.

These screws aren’t visible in this step, but can be seen in the previous one. I’m terrible at taking pictures.

You can see some of the debris causing my scrolling issues in the last photo.

Step 8

              Bottom PCB

Three more P0 screws hold this one in place.
Be careful to put the little doohickey on the red wire back in place (I can’t remember the name)
We can see the micro USB connector on the underside. Unfortunately, I can’t upgrade it to USB-C with the equipment I have.
I have the equipment to clean it though! A can of compressed air was all I needed.

Three more P0 screws hold this one in place.

Be careful to put the little doohickey on the red wire back in place (I can’t remember the name)

We can see the micro USB connector on the underside. Unfortunately, I can’t upgrade it to USB-C with the equipment I have.

I have the equipment to clean it though! A can of compressed air was all I needed.

Step 9

              Scroll Wheel

I couldn’t get the wheel out of the assembly, but I was able to spin it with some compressed air. I didn’t get it on video, but a big chunk of dust came flying out.
I apologize in advance for filming in portrait mode. Also, I failed to get a shot of the debris inside the wheel.
That spring on the bottom in the first picture will probably fall off. Make sure to keep track of it.
I took the assembly apart in an effort to get the wheel out - no dice. I don’t know where this oddly shaped spring goes, possibly on this peg, but I left it out and it doesn’t seem to be important.

I couldn’t get the wheel out of the assembly, but I was able to spin it with some compressed air. I didn’t get it on video, but a big chunk of dust came flying out.

I apologize in advance for filming in portrait mode. Also, I failed to get a shot of the debris inside the wheel.

That spring on the bottom in the first picture will probably fall off. Make sure to keep track of it.

I took the assembly apart in an effort to get the wheel out - no dice. I don’t know where this oddly shaped spring goes, possibly on this peg, but I left it out and it doesn’t seem to be important.

Step 10

              Almost Done!

You can follow steps 5-8 in reverse in order to put the bottom back together.
The top just needs a bit of compressed air, no disassembly required.
You can press the buttons down to gain easier access to the debris.

You can follow steps 5-8 in reverse in order to put the bottom back together.

The top just needs a bit of compressed air, no disassembly required.

You can press the buttons down to gain easier access to the debris.

Step 11

              Congratulations, you did it!

After following steps 1-4 in reverse, your mouse is clean again! And probably cleaner than mine.

After following steps 1-4 in reverse, your mouse is clean again! And probably cleaner than mine.

Insert conclusion here?

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                                                                                      27 other people completed this guide.

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                    Skylar

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Juan Suarez - May 12, 2020

I followed your guide and I found a problem when I put everything together again. Now I turn on the mouse and it’s broken. The battery leds just blink and it doesn’t respond to pressing the channel selection or connect buttons, it just doesn’t work or sincronizes with the dongle, just shows the battery leds blinking. Anyone has any suggestion? Many thanks.

Max - Jul 6, 2020

I have the same problem (all three LED’s blink green and no response to pressing channel selection or connect buttons) that Juan Suarez describes.

I would also be happy for any suggestions on how to fix the issue.

Nicholas Blair - Oct 20, 2020

And? Did you find a way to fix it?

Max - Nov 2, 2020

Unfortunately I did not.

Skylar - May 18, 2021

Have you tried reseating the ribbon cables?

Member-Contributed Guide#

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Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need

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