Chevrolet Ss Sedan Rear Strut Removal Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

Lift and Support Rear of Vehicle
5 steps
Chevrolet SS Sedan Rear Strut Removal
8 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Parking Brake

With the vehicle parked on a flat surface, engage the parking brake
(If applicable) make sure your dash, or panel on the car says “Park” or “Brake”
Depending on your car’s model/make, your parking brake may differ from the image. Make sure to consult your owners manual!

With the vehicle parked on a flat surface, engage the parking brake

(If applicable) make sure your dash, or panel on the car says “Park” or “Brake”

Depending on your car’s model/make, your parking brake may differ from the image. Make sure to consult your owners manual!

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Step 2

              Blocking the Wheel

As an extra safety measure, block the wheel on the opposite side from where you’re lifting the car

As an extra safety measure, block the wheel on the opposite side from where you’re lifting the car

Step 3

              Breaking the Lugs

If removing the wheel, break the nuts before lifting the car with a breaker bar and 22mm or 7/8" socket, or the provided lug wrench.

If removing the wheel, break the nuts before lifting the car with a breaker bar and 22mm or 7/8" socket, or the provided lug wrench.

Step 4

              Lifting

When lifting the car, DO NOT use a jack on the pinch welds. Instead, use the plate on the frame rails as shown.
When lifting with a jack and supporting with a jackstand:
Place the jack here
Place the jack stand here
I like to place towels or something else soft between the jack / stands and the car to protect the paint
Lift the car with the jack until you have the wheel a few inches off the ground. Then insert the jack stand and lower the car onto it.
The jack SHOULD NOT be supporting the weight of the car while you’re working under it.

When lifting the car, DO NOT use a jack on the pinch welds. Instead, use the plate on the frame rails as shown.

When lifting with a jack and supporting with a jackstand:

Place the jack here

Place the jack stand here

I like to place towels or something else soft between the jack / stands and the car to protect the paint

Lift the car with the jack until you have the wheel a few inches off the ground. Then insert the jack stand and lower the car onto it.

The jack SHOULD NOT be supporting the weight of the car while you’re working under it.

Step 5

              Removing the rear wheel

If removing the rear wheel, fully loosen the lugs and set the wheel aside

If removing the rear wheel, fully loosen the lugs and set the wheel aside

Step 6

              Suspension Height Sensor Link

There’s a small arm linking the lower control arm to a vehicle height sensor.
Separate the link from the lower control arm
It takes a little force to pop the linkage off, a flat head screwdriver or trim removal tool can make the process easier.

There’s a small arm linking the lower control arm to a vehicle height sensor.

Separate the link from the lower control arm

It takes a little force to pop the linkage off, a flat head screwdriver or trim removal tool can make the process easier.

Step 7

              Stabilizer Bar Link

Using a 15mm wrench and socket, remove the stabilizer bar link
The brake line runs near the top of this link, to avoid damaging it you should hold the top nut with a wrench and turn the bolt from the bottom. Picture #2 is incorrect, the ratchet should be on the bottom!
Pressure from the suspension may keep the middle plastic “grommet” section in place, you can wiggle it out or wait until the lower control arm is fully freed to remove it.
When reassembling, torque this to around 30ft-lbs.

Using a 15mm wrench and socket, remove the stabilizer bar link

The brake line runs near the top of this link, to avoid damaging it you should hold the top nut with a wrench and turn the bolt from the bottom. Picture #2 is incorrect, the ratchet should be on the bottom!

Pressure from the suspension may keep the middle plastic “grommet” section in place, you can wiggle it out or wait until the lower control arm is fully freed to remove it.

When reassembling, torque this to around 30ft-lbs.

Step 8

              Disconnect Strut from the Control Arm

A single 18mm nut and bolt secures the strut assembly to the lower control arm
Remove the nut with a ratchet while holding the other side with wrench
When re-assembling, this should be torqued to about 60ft-lbs, then tightened an additional quarter turn.
If you cannot get the bolt out, use a jack to lift the lower control arm such that there is no force on the bolt. A small hammer can be used to tap the bolt out, but be careful not to damage the threads!
When re-assembling, the jack will be necessary to align the control arm and strut to re-install the nut and bolt.

A single 18mm nut and bolt secures the strut assembly to the lower control arm

Remove the nut with a ratchet while holding the other side with wrench

When re-assembling, this should be torqued to about 60ft-lbs, then tightened an additional quarter turn.

If you cannot get the bolt out, use a jack to lift the lower control arm such that there is no force on the bolt. A small hammer can be used to tap the bolt out, but be careful not to damage the threads!

When re-assembling, the jack will be necessary to align the control arm and strut to re-install the nut and bolt.

Step 9

              Separate Knuckle from Lower Control Arm

An 18mm nut and bolt secures the lower control arm to the rear knuckle and must be removed.
Like the strut-to-LCA bolt, this may require “finessing” the lower control arm with a jack to remove.
When reassembling, torque this to around 35ft-lbs. You will need to do some prying with a pry-bar or large screwdriver in concert with a jack to get this realigned so you can re-insert the bolt.
This nut is identical to the one removed in the previous step, but the bolt is shorter. Don’t mix them up!
After this step, the lower control arm should move freely.

An 18mm nut and bolt secures the lower control arm to the rear knuckle and must be removed.

Like the strut-to-LCA bolt, this may require “finessing” the lower control arm with a jack to remove.

When reassembling, torque this to around 35ft-lbs. You will need to do some prying with a pry-bar or large screwdriver in concert with a jack to get this realigned so you can re-insert the bolt.

This nut is identical to the one removed in the previous step, but the bolt is shorter. Don’t mix them up!

After this step, the lower control arm should move freely.

Step 10

              Strut Electrical Connection

The strut is electrically connected to the car via a 2-pin connector near where the strut mounts to the body.
There’s a small tab on the connector which you must depress to get it disconnected.

The strut is electrically connected to the car via a 2-pin connector near where the strut mounts to the body.

There’s a small tab on the connector which you must depress to get it disconnected.

Step 11

              Strut to Body Bolts

Four 15mm bolts attach the strut to the body of the vehicle.
These bolts seem to have gotten pretty rusty despite my car not being driven in a salty environment, it may be wise to replace them when replacing the strut.
Remove the bolts, the strut should come free from the body.
When re-assembling, these bolts should be torqued to around 45ft-lbs.

Four 15mm bolts attach the strut to the body of the vehicle.

These bolts seem to have gotten pretty rusty despite my car not being driven in a salty environment, it may be wise to replace them when replacing the strut.

Remove the bolts, the strut should come free from the body.

When re-assembling, these bolts should be torqued to around 45ft-lbs.

Step 12

              Strut Removal

You should be able to slide the strut out with the lower control arm depressed.

You should be able to slide the strut out with the lower control arm depressed.

Step 13

              Re-assembly Notes

The order that I’ve found which makes re-assembly the easiest is:
Install the strut-to-LCA nut/bolt, but keep them loose.
Install the strut-to-body bolts, but keep them loose
Install the LCA-to-knuckle nut/bolt, with the help of a jack and prybar. This step is probably the most difficult.
Get all nuts/bolts tightened snugly.
Raise the LCA with the jack to “simulate” the car sitting on the ground, compressing the suspension. Then, torque everything to specifications.

The order that I’ve found which makes re-assembly the easiest is:

Install the strut-to-LCA nut/bolt, but keep them loose.

Install the strut-to-body bolts, but keep them loose

Install the LCA-to-knuckle nut/bolt, with the help of a jack and prybar. This step is probably the most difficult.

Get all nuts/bolts tightened snugly.

Raise the LCA with the jack to “simulate” the car sitting on the ground, compressing the suspension. Then, torque everything to specifications.

To reassemble, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Chris Green

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